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What (free  ) software is available for converting between the two formats?
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Winboard will let you load and play a PGN file. And when you have the desired position on the board you can have its FEN copied to the clipboard.
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Thanks!
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I do strongly recommend ChessPad. It's free, too, and has no problems with 'extravagant' PGN-notation (like Fritz is using for example). I turned away from Winboard because it has too many problems with displaying the right notation.
http://www.wmlsoftware.com/chesspad.html
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For PGN database, for me the best is Compochess, look at it here http://www.mailchess.de/engl/indexe.html
also that's the homepage of the excelent program Mailchess
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